We started our second museum pass day off by heading to the Rodin Museum. Amy seemed to be getting sicker, but she toughed it out. We wandered through the beautiful outdoor gardens dotted with sculptures by the master Auguste Rodin. Some we had seen before (The Thinker) as Rodin created multiple bronze castings of his works. We were in the midst of the city but it felt like we were miles away – it is very peaceful.
Among the sculptures outside is a series of infographics on walls giving the history of the museum and of Rodin. Basically, when he became well known and wealthy, he bought the property, which was a run down convent, and transformed it into his home and studio. Towards the end of his life he worked with the State to bequeath many of his works and the property itself to the people, on the condition that it would be maintained and open as a museum.
That’s all great and everyone benefits from seeing this master’s works. But Nathan says: too bad Rodin was a creeper and cheated on his wife. And Amy encourages Nathan: stop reading about any of these artists’ lives. And Nathan says: I really want to know who I can look up to both for their work and how they lived their lives!
Inside the museum are many more sculptures, maquettes, studies, and more. There is a whole room of beautiful marble sculptures. We particularly like how Rodin leaves much of the sculpture roughly shaped, with the more polished figures emerging from the stone as if they were being born from or discovered inside it.
Next up was Napoleon’s tomb and the Army Museum. Napoleon is an interesting character. We have heard that he specified the construction of his tomb to be such that visitors would have to bow before his remains as they looked over the railing. The building that houses the tomb is very impressive.
Amy was excited to see some of the French history of WWI and WWII, but also of post-colonial France and their involvement in Vietnam. We saw impressive displays, many of which were interactive, documenting the rise of war across first Europe and then much of the rest of the world.
It always had seemed like France had just laid down to Hitler during WWII, but French resistence was all around. Much of it was headquartered in London, by famous leaders like Charles de Gaulle. While Vichy France isn’t celebrated, it perhaps isn’t as villified as it once had been. The Vichy government was a puppet of Hitler that allowed the Nazis free reign in France, but also ended up protecting the lives of many French citizens. They believed their choice to be: 1) fight and be destroyed, or 2) comply and survive.
After the Army Museum we walked over to Rue Cler for lunch at Cafe du Marche, recommended by Rick Steves in his Paris guidebook that we’ve been using a lot. Amy ordered a “salad” (in case we haven’t mentioned it yet, the French have a very loose definition of what constitutes a salad, as you can see by the photo – the top dish is the salad). Nathan ordered duck confit. Both were good, though we prefered the food from the other cafe we had tried on Rue Cler.
We headed back to the apartment shortly after lunch, to rest before roller derby practice. So Amy decided that on this long trip to Paris and Europe that she couldn’t live without her roller derby gear. She contacted a local league, the Paris Roller Girls, and they said she could practice with them. Everything was awesome so far.
In the derby community it is common for a skater to skate with other leagues while she is in their town. Amy wanted to do the same. PRG’s player-coach Cherry Lielie tried to set up a few skates with the PRG (they just finished their season with a double header in Dublin, winning both bouts) but it didn’t work out.
Cherry is also the coach of the Paris men’s roller derby Panam Squad and invited Amy to practice with them. It was amazing. All of the guys and girls were so nice and their English impeccable.
Most leagues practice outside in various open areas. Of course these areas are popular with all sorts of skaters and so once again Amy found herself in the middle of the roller hockey-roller derby showdown for space. The Panam squad even had chaulked the pavement, but the hockey people were having none of it and kicked us to a smaller area with more glass. Yay! In roller derby you have to adjust quickly and so we did, clearing away glass and drawing a new track on the pavement and then getting right to practice. It was hard, but a ton of fun.
After an hour or so of really tough drills mainly working in the pack and how to block as a pack and in partners, the guys were ready to scrimmage. I had my very first opportunity to referee. I was a jammer ref and I was awful. I do think that all derby girls should try their hand at refereeing to both better learn the rules and see what a difficult job it is to be a ref. I asked the roller derby girls who were there if anyone ever yelled at the refs. They looked at me like I was crazy. Of course they don’t. All of the refs are their friends and they are just volunteering, so why would you yell at them? Let’s just say, I’ve felt a bit convicted. There are many leagues in Paris and so the girls volunteer at the guys’ practice to ref and vice versa. What a great system!
After practice, we went to a nearby Asian cafe and had wonderful beer and bobun (a delightful noodle soup deliciousness with chopped up egg roll on top). It was a great night. Yet another derby community that doesn’t disappoint. The Panam guys and Cherry and Heloise (also jam refereeing) welcomed me in and taught me a lot.